Each month, Brighton Visitor magazine brings you a thoroughly entertaining, digestible and FUN guide to the best of Brighton & Hove, and surrounding Sussex. Check out our ‘Check-in’ and ‘Essential Selection’ for unmissable things to see and do (and great offers too!), discover fascinating facts about they city in ‘Brighton Uncovered’, and keep on trend with top style and fashion from both the quirky Lanes and high street from our fashion editor Andrew Fionda. Plus attractions, restaurants, hotels... and more!
North Laine
Located between Brighton Station and North Street, the expansive North Laine area is the true bohemian heart of the city. Packed with quirky shops and boutiques, its easy to while away a whole afternoon with browsing before relaxing in one of the unqiue bars or cafés.
The Lanes
Not to be confused with North Laine, the area south of North Street is a warren of ‘twittens’ (that’s Sussex speak for alleyway!) lined with antique shops, jewelers, high-end fashion stores and many a fine pub and restaurant!
City Centre/Churchill Square
All of the main high street stores are conveniently located in and around Brighton’s Churchill Square shopping centre, and along North Street and Western Road. You’ll find everything you could possibly need here... without too much effort or stress!
Hove
Continue along Western Road and onto Church Road to discover the delights of the other half of the city. Hove is great if you’re hunting for interiors or womens fashions, plus it’s got some of the best eateries in the city. Explore some of the stunning architecture around the Regency squares.
Kemp Town
Kemp Town stretches from the Old Steine to the marina, and is home to the city’s gay and artistic communities. Make sure you don’t miss the Kemp Town Village area, tucked away at the very far end of St James Street where Bristol Road turns into St Georges Road. It’s a true hidden gem!
Brighton Marina
The Marina is home to a huge range of restaurants and bars, alongside attractions and entertainment. It’s also the largest Marina in Europe so perfect if you fancy a life on the ocean waves.
Lewes
Whilst not a part of Brighton, the neighbouring town of Lewes is a short drive or 10 minute train ride away and is a very different experience to anything you’ll find in the city. Explore the picture perfect lanes where you’ll find traditional pubs and shops, plus attractions including Lewes Castle and Harvey’s Brewery.
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Brighton Uncovered: Parks & Gardens
Rob Marks explores Brighton & Hove’s outdoor spaces!
Queen’s Park occupies a lofty aspect overlooking Kemptown and the sea. This delightful open space has a fascinating, but chequered history. It was formally laid out as a park in 1824 as a ‘subscription pleasure garden’, yet failed to become an attraction. It was subsequently purchased by a wealthy solicitor named Thomas Attree, who, originally, sought to turn it into a private estate. It was Attree who gave the park its current name after Queen Adelaide, wife of William IV. The park then preserved exclusive rights, prohibiting access to the general public. In its time it has been home to an aviary, archery ground and roller skating rink, until finally being sold to Brighton Corporation in 1890. The roller skating rink was subsequently demolished and a pond built in its place. It opened as a public park on 10th August 1892 and, to this day, remains a popular place of recreation for the local community with a children’s play area, cafe, bowling green and tennis courts. At its heart, the tranquil pond attracts many varieties of birdlife, including ducks, geese and herring gulls. It has many mature trees and shrubs, a scented garden and an unattended area to encourage wildlife.
The Old Steine was once a soggy area of common land close to the old town. It was used by the fishing community. Here they could mend boats, dry nets and even keep animals. An intermittent stream, the Wellesbourne, once ran down the western side until it was channelled through vast Victorian sewers. In the 18th century, as Brighton became a popular resort, gravel paths were laid down for the gentry to promenade and several grand houses and hotels sprung up around the area. Many people are curious to the origins of its name. The word Steine actually derives from the Old English word ‘stoene’; meaning a stony place. Interestingly, the magnificent Victoria Fountain sits perched upon a huge mound of stones. Today, Steine remains a pleasant and welcoming area for locals and visitors alike. Amidst the buzz of encircling traffic it appears more European in essence, almost Parisian, with it shady trees, dazzling flora and friendly cafe. It remains an area of respite away from the bustling town and crowded promenade. Furthermore, the allure of the fountain’s sparkling waters seem to invite one to take a breather, dream a little and simply watch the world go by.
The Victoria Gardens were once a bland area of open ground between the Level and Old Steine. This area was used for cricket matches, fairs and various celebrations. The area became neglected and was considered to be a ‘place of shame and reproach to the town’. Eventually an improvement fund was put in place and the whole area restored. The Prince Regent even made a generous donation to this restoration scheme. The area was enclosed and gravel paths were laid down and shrubs and trees planted. Sadly, many of the magnificent mature trees, that once graced the gardens, were uprooted in the storm of October 1987. The southern part of the gardens were formally opened in July 1818 and the northern end the following year. However, only local residents and subscribers had use of them. Both gardens were finally made open to public by the mayor, Sir John Blaker, on the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria on 22nd June 1897. At the southern end is a listed marble statue of Queen Victoria who, ironically, was not a great lover of Brighton. At the northern end can be found the Mazda electric fountain , given to the town in 1930 by Thomson-Houston Ltd following an exhibition. Today, alongside being an area of general recreation, the gardens are used for a various events, particularly the Brighton Festival in May.
St. Anne’s Well Gardens sit perched above Furze Hill in Hove, about half a mile from the sea, offering a haven of tranquillity in the heart of the city. Interestingly, the name does not derive from a saint at all, but from Annafrieda, a Saxon lady whose tears of grief, for her murdered lover, were said to have created the Chalybeate Spring now known as St. Anne’s Well. The area became a health spa as early as 1700, due to its fast flowing spring, which was thought to have healing properties. The formal gardens, as we know them, were first developed by financier and philanthropist Sir Isaac Goldsmid, who bought the land in1830. In 1874, George Albert Smith, an early pioneer of the film industry, leased the gardens and began commercializing them until they were finally purchased by the local authorities in 1908. Many different varieties of native and exotic trees can be found in these shady, undulating grounds. The visitor can also experience the sensory delight of the scented garden, with its heady cocktail of different fragrances. The gardens have become a popular place for all the family with its playground for children, tennis courts, bowling green and well-stocked fish pond. There is also a pleasant and popular cafe offering tasty wholesome food at reasonable prices.
The Kipling Gardens can be found just beyond the village pond in Rottingdean and adjacent to the home of its most famous former resident Rudyard Kipling. The gardens had been abandoned and were once in such a sorry state that reclamation seemed virtually impossible. Then, in the 1980s, they were purchased by the Rottingdean Preservation Society and this tangled wilderness was painstakingly restored to its former glory. 1986 the gardens were formerly handed over to council, who continue to maintain and improve them. These traditional gardens are typical of the period in which they were first cultivated being divided into several separate distinctive areas. Each area is separated by wonderful old flintstone walls and includes a delightful woodland garden and herb garden with its subtle infusion of aromas. There is also the fragrant rose garden with numerous varieties of different blooms. Within this varied horticultural labyrinth are a number of quiet nooks and crannies where one can picnic, read or simply snooze away a warm summer’s afternoon. Alternatively, there is the opportunity to unwind whilst watching a gentle game of croquet on the only formal lawn of its kind in the city.
Hove Lawns are a sprawling grassy area adjacent to the beach. They run from the Peace Statue to beyond Grand Avenue. They were first laid out in around 1883 and have since become a popular area for picnics, kickabouts, dog walking and generally chilling out. They also have become home to the Brighton and Hove Food and Drink Festival, French Market and the annual Paddle Round the Pier event. Many Hove residents and Brightonians, having taken their morning constitutional, will meet and mingle at the popular Meeting Place cafe, situated at the western end. Beyond the eastern edge of the lawns can be found Hove Lagoon. This salt water lake was built in 1930 specifically for the sailing of model yachts and radio controlled boats. Up until the 1970s small motor boats and canoes could be hired there. Interestingly, it has changed very little down the years, including its friendly cafe. There are actually two lagoons; the smaller is now home to the Brighton and Hove Model Powerboat Club, while the larger one is used by Hove Lagoon Watersports.
Explore Sussex
Rob Marks hops on the 13X Tourist Trail bus service to Eastbourne & discovers the many attractions of East Sussex...
With so much to see and do in Sussex, one is often spoiled for choice. Decisions on where to go and what to see are so frequently hampered by the chores of planning an itinerary. How reassuring it would be to have an exciting day out planned for you without the stress of driving, parking or petrol expenses. Want to know more? Brighton and Hove Buses have recently introduced their 13X Tourist Trail service, which takes in a spectacular route from Brighton to Eastbourne, visiting some of Sussex’s most popular tourist attractions. This hop-on hop-off service, with hourly buses, allows you the freedom to spend as much time as you like at each destination before moving on. The journey takes approximately 1 hour 20 minutes, taking in the coastline for much of the route.
There are many interesting and picturesque places to visit on route. One of the first stops is the delightful village of Rottingdean, where you can explore the quaint high street with its old taverns, tea rooms and famous Rottingdean Club; thought to be haunted by the ghost of former Hollywood star, Cary Grant, who was very fond of the place. At the heart of the village you will find its tranquil pond, overlooked by the Grange Art Gallery and Museum with its lovely, secluded tea garden. On the north side is the former home of one of Rottindean’s most famous former residents, Rudyard Kipling, and the beautifully restored Kipling Gardens.
For something more family orientated there is Newhaven Fort; a Victorian coastal fortification. Here you can experience the sights, sounds and even smells of the period, along with fascinating displays and audio visual presentations. One of the great attractions for kids is the Blitz Street Shelter Experience, where they can undergo the simulation of being caught in an actual air raid. Another great family friendly attraction in Newhaven is Paradise Park with it’s gardens, play areas and exhibits (including dinosaurs!).
The final stop is Eastbourne itself; a gem of the South Coast and the sedate neighbour to the more effervescent Brighton. The gentle sweep of West Lawns draws the eye along an alluring panoramic swoop from high above the cliff tops down to the imposing promenade below. Majestic 19th century hotels look proudly out onto the delightful seafront gardens, ablaze with flora amidst clusters of leafy palms. Within the town you will find a good range of shops, bars, restaurants, theatres and places of entertainment for children. Moreover, Eastbourne has a wonderful, spotless beachfront with excellent, safe bathing. Your 13X ticket also entitles you to a discount on both the Brighton and Hove and Eastbourne City Sightseeing Tours.
Route 13X runs daily between 26 June and 25 September and has Brighton & Hove Buses’ most experienced and helpful drivers to look after passengers’ needs. A SAVER ticket priced at £5 from the bus driver (or for an amazing deal at just £3.20 when purchased from many local shops and One Stop Travel shops at Brighton’s Old Steine and Station, or buy online in advance from www.buses.co.uk for only £3) gives unlimited travel journeys on not only the 13X Tourist Trail bus route but every Brighton & Hove bus route for the day. www.buses.co.uk
Brighton Art: castor&pollux
John Keenan’s monthly look at Brighton’s art scene...
Mike Levy has come a long way since opening Castor and Pollux at King’s Road arches, between the piers on Brighton seafront in 2002. Back in the early days the chief attraction of the area was watching the tramps fighting on the beach in the early morning mist; now the attractive gallery claims its rightful place among chi-chi bars and celebrity-studded restaurants.
This month the gallery features the work of American modernist artist Charley Harper who died three years ago.
Harper is renowned for his ‘minimal realist’ portrayals of animals and nature. In his best known book, ‘Birds and Words’ (1974), Harper wrote: “When I look at a wildlife or nature subject, I don’t see the feathers in the wings, I just count the wings. I see exciting shapes, colour combinations, patterns, textures, fascinating behaviour and endless possibilities for making pictures.”
His style evolved from his work as a commercial designer at an advertising agency. Tasked with illustrating cysts for a medical pamphlet he decided to pare down his drawings, removing what he considered extraneous detail.
He said: “I enjoyed painting real people with all the wrinkles and crow’s feet that gave character to their faces, but I was no good at the idealized, vacuous, happy housewives that greet you from every soap ad.”
The advertising world’s loss was an art lover’s gain as the dynamic and delightful works on show at Castor and Pollux this month demonstrate.
165 Kings Road Arches, Lower Prom, Brighton BN1 1NB • 01273 773 776 • www.castorandpollux.co.uk
